Dinero Escondido
I didn't exactly fall in love with Puerto Escondido. Unfortunately it got off to a bad start - after a 10 hour overnight bus I checked into my hostel Casa Losodeli and within the space of 10 minutes and 10 metres, I had "lost" 2100 pesos, which works out at about £85. On a normal day in normal life this would be shitty, but on a normal day in backpacking life it was reeeeeeally really shit. It works out at 9 nights accommodation in Mexico, or 70 bottles of beer. Not that I'm drinking beer any more but you catch my drift.
The bad and sad thing is that someone picked it up and didn't hand it back, despite me very obviously searching for it for a good 30 minutes. The worst thing is that I'm 90% sure I know who took it - it was very early in the morning and there were not very many people around, and said person spoke to me at length that morning and not a jot after, which, to me at least, seems very weird.
After this incident I was less than enamoured with Puerto Escondido - not its fault but I was feeling put out. The 70% humidity wasn't helping either, nor were the many beach cafes down on Playa Carazillio, which after a sweaty hike down the steps to the beach, wanted me to spend a minimum of 250 pesos just to sit at a table with some shade. Not even on a sun lounger! There was no other shade, so didn't go back to that beach.
It wasn't all doom and gloom though. I met up with Holly, a girl I'd met in Oaxaca, and we arranged to go to the daily turtle release down at Playa Bacocho. There are tons of tours in Puerto Escondido, including some where it's just you and the guide releasing lots of Baby turtles, but we went for the one that seems to be run/sponsored by the local government.
Every day just before 5pm, people gather at Playa Bacocho. It's a very pretty beach - much nicer than any of the other playas that I've seen here in Puerto Escondido. It's longer and wider, just about swimmable and at 5pm there was no one there aside from the 30 or so of us gathered at the hut for the Turtle Release. It's also a little off the beaten track so there's no option but to take a taxi or walk for 30 mins. The former is much preferable in the 30 degree heat, and only cost 40 pesos between us.
We'd been informed that it was 50 pesos to go to the Turtle release, but when we arrived we had to chuck in 100. There was just a man and a woman administering and at 5pm sharp the man gave a discussion about the Turtle lift cycle and the work of the association. I *think* - I couldn't hear much as he spoke very softly and there were at least 5 kids in the group speaking very loudly.
But it didn't matter, because it was all about the main event! After the man had finished his talk we were all given half an empty coconut shell. The lady brought a massive bowl forward and removed the lid, and there must have been about 40 baby turtles inside. All just chilling.
There was a sudden buzz amongst the small crowd, which surged forward as the lady proceeded to transfer a tiny turtle into each half coconut. We were then asked to line up parallel to the sea, and gather in groups of 3 to release the turtles. There was a bit of waiting around as we weren't sure when was the right moment to let the little dudes go, but it turned out there is no "right" moment, and as soon as one person had let their little turtle go, it set everyone else off like dominoes.
It was magic! The little guys didn't move much in the coconut shell, but as soon as they were on the sand, they knew exactly what to do. Well, of course they did, but it was magical nontheless!
Afterwards we took a taxi to Zicatela, which is the main playa in Puerto Escondido. It's chocker with bars and restaurants, and much busier than the area where Losodelli is. So I think I'm glad I stayed away from the main drag - maybe that's age for you!
Still, it was nice to sit on the beach and watch the surf - Zicatela isn't swimmable but has big breaks for the more seasoned surfer. Holly and I, and Kyle, an American from our hostel, grabbed some tins at the Oxxo and watched the waves roll in as the sun went down.
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In Puerto Escondido I also said a final goodbye to my little nieta, Maxinita. We have said goodbye a few times before but this is it! The last goodbye!
I got out of my mood to go surfing with her on my final morning in Puerto Escondido and naturally, immediately regretted not having done it sooner. The lesson was not cheap at 500 pesos, but it was loads of fun, I upgraded to a hard board and the instructor was a hottie.
Maxine and I had our final adieu over some delicious fish tacos. I say "adieu" - I'm sure we will see each other in London or Copenhagen or both, but it was still sad to say adios to a friend I've met in many places during my magical time in Mexico. But this es la vida del mochilero!
The bad and sad thing is that someone picked it up and didn't hand it back, despite me very obviously searching for it for a good 30 minutes. The worst thing is that I'm 90% sure I know who took it - it was very early in the morning and there were not very many people around, and said person spoke to me at length that morning and not a jot after, which, to me at least, seems very weird.
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| Here's a picture of me looking pensive on Playa Bacocho. Unrelated to losing the money but fits the mood, haha. |
After this incident I was less than enamoured with Puerto Escondido - not its fault but I was feeling put out. The 70% humidity wasn't helping either, nor were the many beach cafes down on Playa Carazillio, which after a sweaty hike down the steps to the beach, wanted me to spend a minimum of 250 pesos just to sit at a table with some shade. Not even on a sun lounger! There was no other shade, so didn't go back to that beach.
It wasn't all doom and gloom though. I met up with Holly, a girl I'd met in Oaxaca, and we arranged to go to the daily turtle release down at Playa Bacocho. There are tons of tours in Puerto Escondido, including some where it's just you and the guide releasing lots of Baby turtles, but we went for the one that seems to be run/sponsored by the local government.
 |
| Where the magic happens down on Playa Bacocho. |
Every day just before 5pm, people gather at Playa Bacocho. It's a very pretty beach - much nicer than any of the other playas that I've seen here in Puerto Escondido. It's longer and wider, just about swimmable and at 5pm there was no one there aside from the 30 or so of us gathered at the hut for the Turtle Release. It's also a little off the beaten track so there's no option but to take a taxi or walk for 30 mins. The former is much preferable in the 30 degree heat, and only cost 40 pesos between us.
We'd been informed that it was 50 pesos to go to the Turtle release, but when we arrived we had to chuck in 100. There was just a man and a woman administering and at 5pm sharp the man gave a discussion about the Turtle lift cycle and the work of the association. I *think* - I couldn't hear much as he spoke very softly and there were at least 5 kids in the group speaking very loudly.
But it didn't matter, because it was all about the main event! After the man had finished his talk we were all given half an empty coconut shell. The lady brought a massive bowl forward and removed the lid, and there must have been about 40 baby turtles inside. All just chilling.
There was a sudden buzz amongst the small crowd, which surged forward as the lady proceeded to transfer a tiny turtle into each half coconut. We were then asked to line up parallel to the sea, and gather in groups of 3 to release the turtles. There was a bit of waiting around as we weren't sure when was the right moment to let the little dudes go, but it turned out there is no "right" moment, and as soon as one person had let their little turtle go, it set everyone else off like dominoes.
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| My little friend! |
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| Everyone ready to go! |
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| "Go free, my son" |
It was magic! The little guys didn't move much in the coconut shell, but as soon as they were on the sand, they knew exactly what to do. Well, of course they did, but it was magical nontheless!
Afterwards we took a taxi to Zicatela, which is the main playa in Puerto Escondido. It's chocker with bars and restaurants, and much busier than the area where Losodelli is. So I think I'm glad I stayed away from the main drag - maybe that's age for you!
 |
| Playa Zicatela at sunset |
Still, it was nice to sit on the beach and watch the surf - Zicatela isn't swimmable but has big breaks for the more seasoned surfer. Holly and I, and Kyle, an American from our hostel, grabbed some tins at the Oxxo and watched the waves roll in as the sun went down.
-
In Puerto Escondido I also said a final goodbye to my little nieta, Maxinita. We have said goodbye a few times before but this is it! The last goodbye!
I got out of my mood to go surfing with her on my final morning in Puerto Escondido and naturally, immediately regretted not having done it sooner. The lesson was not cheap at 500 pesos, but it was loads of fun, I upgraded to a hard board and the instructor was a hottie.
Maxine and I had our final adieu over some delicious fish tacos. I say "adieu" - I'm sure we will see each other in London or Copenhagen or both, but it was still sad to say adios to a friend I've met in many places during my magical time in Mexico. But this es la vida del mochilero!
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