Serene San Agustín
After some time in the relatively big cities of Cali and Popayan, I was looking forward to getting a little more off the beaten track. Less so to the 5 hour journey down a bumpy road, but you don't get something for nothing!
From Popayan I could either head 5 hours North East to Tierradientro or 5 hours South East to San Agustin. I opted for the latter, as I'm heading South towards Ecuador, and San Agustin is home to one of the most famous archaeological sites in Colombia. It was not to be missed!!
Back to that bumpy 5 hour drive. It started off well when my bus was 30 minutes late. But to be fair the rest of the journey was not bad at all. If you suffer from a weak constitution, a travel sickness pill might be advised! I actually preferred the unpaved parts of the road, as although we bounced along slowly, this was preferable to careering down the smoother roads, taking every corner (of which there were many, MANY) at 50mph.
But I arrived in San Agustin in one piece and moved into my cosy dorm at the lovely Casa Nelly. It had been recommended to me by many friends on the road, and the reviews were stonking. Quite rightly so!
The only minor issue at Casa Nelly is that you can hear everything throughout the house. Everything is made of wood, so I was woken bright and early by the creaking of floorboards as people moved around.
After breakfast I headed off towards the Archeological Park. Taking the back road from Casa Nelly, I very quickly made a friend that proceeded to follow me along. Slight problem: every time we passed a house on the quiet country road, the inevitable (guard) dogs would start barking and growling at my over-enthusiastic furry friend. Not a problem when they're tied up, but when they're not, the sight of 2 massive alsatians coming for said furry friend, who is suddenly stuck to your thigh, is somewhat off putting. So I turned back, picked up my mozzie spray, gave everyone at Casa Nelly a good laugh with my wimpish story, and was back on my way via the main road.
45 minutes later and I was checked in at the Parque Arqueológico Nacional de San Agustín e Isnos. For the princely sum of 25000COP you get 2 days entrance to the archaeological sites around San Agustin and this cute little passport, with places for stamps at each site:
I started in the Bosque de las Estatuas, which aside from the constant humming/drilling sound made by woodcutter ants, felt extremely serene and peaceful. The walk through the lush forest took about 35 minutes, with statues on display at regular intervals along the way.
About halfway round I met a sort of park ranger. He said he would love to do what I'm doing and travel the world. He was a bit older than me, so I understood that his circumstances are maybe more restrictive (kids, house), but I explained that really I had just made a choice, to travel, instead of buying a house.
Then we moved onto the juicy stuff. Senor Park Ranger said that the Parque was a very special place and we had been blessed to be able to visit it. He wanted to know if I believed in God, so I said that I believe in something but when it comes to organised religion I often feel it's a way to control people, and I don't feel the need to go to Church to talk to whatever God there is. He seemed happy with that, but then went on to ask if I felt like something is protecting us. Not really I said - I don't see why any God would give us free will and then interject at any given time (all the horrendous things that happen in the world notwithstanding). Then he says, it's important to be good in life, and bear in mind that if we're not, we'll have to answer for it at some point. Well, I said, I think it's better to do good things because that's the right thing to do, and not out of fear that you'll be punished later. He looked surprised... maybe I made him think!
I continued my walk through the forest... it really was so peaceful and quiet. I felt like the only person in the world and for a moment, intensely happy. One of the guides at the ticket booth had told me there was an energy about the place and I'm inclined to believe him.
I took a little break and had possibly the most delicious drink I've had in my whole time in Colombia - a Maracafe. Condensed Milk and passionfruit topped with frozen coffee. Hello!
Then it was time to visit the Mesitas:
After the bosque, the majority of the archaeological park is arranged around mesitas. Many of the megaliths that cover the region around San Agustín are arranged in a mesita - a funerary arrangement with statues to stand guard over the dead and protect the burial site. The more important the person or family, the more elaborate the design of the statues and the arrangement around the funeral mound.
On the way to the lookout at the end of the main park trail, you come across the Fuente de Lavapatas, where images have been carved into the riverbed:
From Popayan I could either head 5 hours North East to Tierradientro or 5 hours South East to San Agustin. I opted for the latter, as I'm heading South towards Ecuador, and San Agustin is home to one of the most famous archaeological sites in Colombia. It was not to be missed!!
Back to that bumpy 5 hour drive. It started off well when my bus was 30 minutes late. But to be fair the rest of the journey was not bad at all. If you suffer from a weak constitution, a travel sickness pill might be advised! I actually preferred the unpaved parts of the road, as although we bounced along slowly, this was preferable to careering down the smoother roads, taking every corner (of which there were many, MANY) at 50mph.
But I arrived in San Agustin in one piece and moved into my cosy dorm at the lovely Casa Nelly. It had been recommended to me by many friends on the road, and the reviews were stonking. Quite rightly so!
 |
| The view from the dorm balcony. |
The only minor issue at Casa Nelly is that you can hear everything throughout the house. Everything is made of wood, so I was woken bright and early by the creaking of floorboards as people moved around.
After breakfast I headed off towards the Archeological Park. Taking the back road from Casa Nelly, I very quickly made a friend that proceeded to follow me along. Slight problem: every time we passed a house on the quiet country road, the inevitable (guard) dogs would start barking and growling at my over-enthusiastic furry friend. Not a problem when they're tied up, but when they're not, the sight of 2 massive alsatians coming for said furry friend, who is suddenly stuck to your thigh, is somewhat off putting. So I turned back, picked up my mozzie spray, gave everyone at Casa Nelly a good laugh with my wimpish story, and was back on my way via the main road.
45 minutes later and I was checked in at the Parque Arqueológico Nacional de San Agustín e Isnos. For the princely sum of 25000COP you get 2 days entrance to the archaeological sites around San Agustin and this cute little passport, with places for stamps at each site:
I started in the Bosque de las Estatuas, which aside from the constant humming/drilling sound made by woodcutter ants, felt extremely serene and peaceful. The walk through the lush forest took about 35 minutes, with statues on display at regular intervals along the way.
About halfway round I met a sort of park ranger. He said he would love to do what I'm doing and travel the world. He was a bit older than me, so I understood that his circumstances are maybe more restrictive (kids, house), but I explained that really I had just made a choice, to travel, instead of buying a house.
Then we moved onto the juicy stuff. Senor Park Ranger said that the Parque was a very special place and we had been blessed to be able to visit it. He wanted to know if I believed in God, so I said that I believe in something but when it comes to organised religion I often feel it's a way to control people, and I don't feel the need to go to Church to talk to whatever God there is. He seemed happy with that, but then went on to ask if I felt like something is protecting us. Not really I said - I don't see why any God would give us free will and then interject at any given time (all the horrendous things that happen in the world notwithstanding). Then he says, it's important to be good in life, and bear in mind that if we're not, we'll have to answer for it at some point. Well, I said, I think it's better to do good things because that's the right thing to do, and not out of fear that you'll be punished later. He looked surprised... maybe I made him think!
I continued my walk through the forest... it really was so peaceful and quiet. I felt like the only person in the world and for a moment, intensely happy. One of the guides at the ticket booth had told me there was an energy about the place and I'm inclined to believe him.
I took a little break and had possibly the most delicious drink I've had in my whole time in Colombia - a Maracafe. Condensed Milk and passionfruit topped with frozen coffee. Hello!
 |
| So good it deserved a photo! |
Then it was time to visit the Mesitas:
 |
| Burial sites around a mesita |
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| A mesita |
After the bosque, the majority of the archaeological park is arranged around mesitas. Many of the megaliths that cover the region around San Agustín are arranged in a mesita - a funerary arrangement with statues to stand guard over the dead and protect the burial site. The more important the person or family, the more elaborate the design of the statues and the arrangement around the funeral mound.
On the way to the lookout at the end of the main park trail, you come across the Fuente de Lavapatas, where images have been carved into the riverbed:
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| Images in the rocks at the Fuente de Lavapatas |
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| A mesita at the mirador at the end of the park trail. |
As well as the main archeological park, there are many other sites with statues around the pueblo of San Agustin and in the wider area of Isnos. The next day I made a beeline for El Tablon and La Chaquira, two of four sites that many people choose to visit on horseback. But it's very easy to jump on a bus from the centre of San Agustin and after 10 minute drive uphill and a nice chat with the bus driver I was at the start of the road leading down to the two sites. A very easy walk down the gravel track led to El Tablon, a mesita arrangement at the bottom of a hill.
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| The road leading to El Tablon and La Chaquira |
Before I came to San Agustin, many local people had said to me that there is a special energy in this region of Colombia. I try not to be too cynical in general but in my head I raised my eyebrows at this suggestion.
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| El Tablon |
Well, on this day I could eat my hat. The day before I had already felt that peaceful serenity when walking through the forest at the main archeological park (prior to my encounter with the man that got all religious on me), and the same feeling was to be found at El Tablon. Again I was the only person around, save a horse grazing on the hill (which still makes me the only person, because a horse is a horse) and after walking down the hill to look at the mesita I climbed back to the hut at the top and sat there, just feeling all peaceful.
It was about another 30 minutes walk to La Chaquira. Or at least, it should have been, but for some reason I had a Deaknav fail (maybe all the mysterious energy knocked my internal compass off) and ended up 20 minutes out of the way. Back on track, thanks to Maps.Me (if you're a traveller/backpacker and you don't have Maps.Me yet, please download it now. Right this moment, right now.) I wandered past what looked like a farm, with lots of words of wisdom signposted along the way:
When I reached the entrance to La Chaquira, it seemed to be much more touristy than El Tablon, with quite a few buildings, seemingly some sort of welcome centre and a restaurant. But they were all deserted - it is low season after all. Following the signs to La Chaquira, I came across three people - a couple and their guide. We had a brief but nice chat at the entrance, where once again, I was told of the cosmic energy that I'd find once I reached La Chaquira. I was starting to believe it at this point!
A 15 minute walk downhill, I wasn't looking forward to the return, as it was steep in places and gravelly. As I got closer to La Chaquira, the wind whipped up around me. The sun was beating down, though every now and then clouds would come over. Eventually I reached a point where I was suddenly looking out over the surrounding valley. I'd almost forgotten the climb up in the bus earlier, as the height was a surprise and the views incredible.
I climbed further down and eventually the rocky outcrop came into view and I almost felt apprehensive, waiting for the mystical carvings to appear. And I know, I sound like a total nutter at this point!
Looking out to the left you can see a waterfall, and this is where the majority and principal carvings look to. I say looking, because that's what they are doing. There are others facing in different directions too, it's as if they are facing all directions, almost to ward off anyone that might come here. Or maybe they are there to protect. I'm not sure, so unfortunately I can't tell you anything informative on that one!
But what I can tell you, and I will sound no less loony, is that I do believe in this... energy that everyone mentions! While I was at La Chaquira, I found a spot to sit in. Not right at the bottom, as there it felt like the wind might whip me up and away. But a little further up the steps I found a place to perch. I wanted to enjoy having this place all to myself. As I sat there, with the wind whipping around me, I felt like I was being drained of all my energy. At a point the wind dropped and suddenly it was silent, and it was a relief! Then, it started again. I felt like I wanted to stay there forever, but I also felt like if I stayed much longer, I would be so drained of my energy that I wouldn't be able to move, I'd end up curled up there under the stars, with the wind whipping round overhead into the night. I know, it sounds completely crazy, and when I recounted this to a guy at the hostel later, he had a really good laugh and made me the butt of a few jokes that evening. But I maintain!
I hiked back up the hill, and the further away I got from La Chaquira, the more energised I felt. It was all so weird. But that's how it was!
About 10 minutes into the walk back up the track, I crossed a man tying his horse up. He had seen me get off the bus and commented that I had been gone for a while!
We walked back up the track together, and back past the lulo farm, where the men working there said hi to my companion and filled his bag with freshly harvested lulo. Fresh off the trees that day! My friend said he was going to gift me some... he carried the whole bag, which must have been about 6 kilos back to the top of the track where he cleaned some off for me. I had to give him some money of course, it wouldn't have been right not to. 2000 pesos was not much - enough for me to still consider the fresh lulo a gift, but equally enough for me to show my appreciation!
I'd love to say that that was how my serene stay in San Agustin ended, but that night a bunch of young twenty-somethings showed up at the tranquil Casa de Nelly, with a will to party. I was the lucky gal in the dorm next door, who got to listen to them snort up the bag of coke they'd acquired (from the hostel chef, no less), and all the dull chat that ensued with their "crazy" party in the middle of nowhere. And also got to listen to all the whingeing when it transpired they couldn't buy anymore. Luckily for them the hostel owner was willing to supply a bottle of (rank) aguardiente, so they could continue their "fun" [read: very dull chat] for another hour... I decided to leave the next day, very happy with my fill of history and cosmic energy in the otherwise very serene San Agustin.
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